EVEREST

  THE WEST RIDGE

By  THOMAS F. HORNBEIN

Photographs from the American Mount Everest Expedition

         and by its leader,  
NORMAN G. DYHRENFURTH

Introduction by  WILLIAM E. SIRI

         Edited by  DAVID BROWER

Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.
Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.

                                                            --GOETHE

                           

SIERRA CLUB   SAN FRANCISCO

Copyright 1965

 

from the foreword . . .

"If we can pull it off," Norman Dyhrenfurth said of the West Ridge, "it would be the biggest possible thing still to be accomplished in Himalayan mountaineering."  This judgment came from the man best qualified to make it. He was leading the American Mount Everest Expedition when he said it; he had already climbed in many lands, had been on four previous Himalayan expeditions including the Swiss Expedition to Everest, and he had been dreaming of the West Ridge for years.

The importance of the West Ridge was clear to Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld; they knew that there should be a book about it soon after they completed their unique traverse of the top of the world. We knew that there should be a Sierra Club Exhibit Format book on the American Everest Expedition. We did not know, however, how good a marriage the two projects would make.

We wanted a book in three parts: about the approach, the people and the environment the expedition met as it started out. About the contest, man versus rock and ice and versus his own weaknesses, shored up with his own inner strength -- not the nuts-and-bolts story of the climb but something reaching deeper. About the prospect of man and mountains in general, one that would review the relationship from the time he learned to accept the mountains' challenge as a game. The finest Himalayan photographs we could find would be paired with the most moving excerpts of text others could find. Perhaps such a book would reveal the survival value to man of the force within him that sends him off to summits.

DAVID R. BROWER


[Photograph: Barry C. Bishop from Everest The West Ridge]  

 

THE WILDNESS WITHIN US